Articles
Day-by-day itineraries, what to eat, how the city actually works, and the places within a train ride that are worth the day.
1956, and What Came After
Twelve days in October when Hungary left the Soviet bloc, and the thirty-three years of silence that followed.
Budapest Airport to the City
One terminal, one direct bus, and several ways to pay four times as much for the same journey.
Day Trips from Budapest
A Serbian town on the river, a citadel above the Bend, wine country an hour east, and a lake the size of a small sea.
Eating in Budapest
Paprika, lard and slow cooking, plus a modern kitchen that has quietly become very good indeed.
Getting Around Budapest
Four metro lines, a tram network that does most of the work, and an inspection regime that catches people out.
How Much Does Budapest Cost?
Still one of the better-value capitals in Europe, with a currency that moves and a few places designed to take advantage of you.
The Baths of Budapest
A hundred thermal springs, four centuries of bathhouses, and a set of unwritten rules nobody tells you at the door.
Two Days in Budapest
One day on each bank, arranged so that the hills come before the heat and the baths come after the walking.
Where to Stay in Budapest
The districts are numbered, the numbers tell you something, and the difference between V and VII is three minutes and a lot of noise.